Flooring Installation

Tile Flooring in Ontario

Tile is the most permanent floor you can install and the least forgiving of shortcuts underneath. Porcelain does not flex; the structure beneath it has to be stiff enough, flat enough and properly membraned, or cracks and hollow spots follow. We scope tile floors from the substrate up: deflection checked, surfaces flattened, and an uncoupling membrane installed wherever movement or heating cables call for one.

Layout is the visible half of the craft. We dry-line rooms so cuts land where the eye does not go, centre patterns on the sightlines that matter, and set large-format tile with levelling systems to keep lippage under control. Grout and movement joints go in to specification, edges get proper metal profiles or bullnose, and heating cable slots beneath the tile where the plan includes it.

What this covers

  • Substrate assessment for stiffness and flatness before tile is confirmed
  • Levelling and preparation, including cement board or uncoupling membrane as the assembly requires
  • Layout planning with dry lines so cuts and patterns land deliberately
  • Porcelain or ceramic installation with the correct trowel size and mortar coverage
  • Large-format tile set with levelling clips to control lippage
  • Grouting, movement joints and silicone at perimeters and changes of plane
  • Metal edge profiles or thresholds where tile meets other flooring

What affects the price

  • Tile size and format β€” large-format and plank tiles demand flatter substrates and more setting time
  • Pattern choice, since herringbone and offset layouts add cuts and layout time over a straight lay
  • How much substrate preparation the existing floor needs
  • Whether heated floor cable goes beneath, adding a wiring stage by a Licensed Electrical Contractor
  • Porcelain versus ceramic versus natural stone, which differ in material and handling

Every home is different, so we don’t publish flat prices β€” the quote is free and based on your actual job.

Common questions

Why do tile floors need an uncoupling membrane?
Substrates move β€” wood expands, concrete cracks as it cures β€” and rigid tile bonded directly to a moving surface eventually inherits those cracks. An uncoupling membrane sits between them and absorbs the differential movement; some versions add waterproofing and a channel bed for heating cables. Not every assembly needs one, but over most wood subfloors and newer concrete it is cheap insurance.
Can tile go over my existing floor?
Occasionally over well-bonded existing tile, after honest assessment of height, deflection and adhesion β€” but usually the old floor comes out. Tiling over a marginal base saves a day now and forfeits the floor later. Removal also lets us check the substrate, flatten it properly and keep the finished height in line with adjacent rooms and door swings.
Is tile cold underfoot in an Ontario winter?
Tile conducts heat away from skin, so it feels cooler than wood at the same room temperature β€” that is physics, not a defect. The genuine answer is electric in-floor heating installed beneath the tile, which turns the coldest floor in the house into the warmest. If heating is not in the budget, area rugs in the standing zones do honest work.
What size grout joint should a tile floor have?
The joint follows the tile. Rectified porcelain can run tight joints; pressed tiles need wider ones to absorb size variation between pieces. Floors also need soft movement joints at perimeters and at set intervals across large areas, placed under trim or in grout lines where they disappear. We agree on the look with you at layout, before any mortar is mixed.

Ready to sort out your tile flooring?

Tell us what you're planning β€” one room or the whole home β€” and get a free quote.